New Orleans in the Summer

In spite of the many problems plaguing New Orleans, there is also another side, the side promoted by the tourist business. In this column, I've talked about the fun side of the city and the fact that there is much to see and do, even if you do not consider yourself a "party person."

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I’ve been in New Orleans this past week for a convention with the National Society of Newspaper Columnists. The party never stops in New Orleans. The people are tourist-friendly and the visitors’ bureau is jazzed you are there.

The French Quarter is a quaint area of town where brightly-colored buildings have wrought iron balconies and flower boxes. The streets are very narrow since they were built in the 1700’s. In the evenings, bars are wide open and streets crowded with young people and pick pockets.

New Orleans’ summer weather is so hot and steamy that my hair immediately frizzed like an SOS pad. A walk down the street gave me a hot flash that even a pink hurricane in a souvenir glass couldn’t cool.

Everyone gives you strings of Mardi Gras beads to wear, which help identify you as a tourist. There is a mime, clown, human statue, or jazz musician on every corner working for tips. They seem to have more entrepreneurs per square foot than tourists.

The fact that I had a camera around my neck and stopped to take a picture every two feet probably helped to identify me as an easy mark. There were so many tourists in the French Quarter that it was hard to tell if you were tipping the locals or each other. Everybody had their hand out.

However, the street people all worked, entertained you, played music or posed with you for an unforgettable snapshot for the folks back home. One clown told me I could probably sell his picture on eBay. I guess he forgot that clowns don’t talk.

Horses and carriages give picturesque tours of the city. You can also take an old-fashioned streetcar which runs down the tracks in the middle of Canal Street, but you have to get off and change streetcars to come back. It helps if you can remember which side is downtown and which side is up.

When the wild partying starts in the Quarter at night, old people like me go back to the hotel to growl about the noise, sirens, and cursing in the streets. But even the hotel had a Carousel Bar that revolved like a merry-go-round and made you a bit dizzy whether you were drinking or not.

One evening a brass jazz band led us through the streets to our evening event, and we followed in a New Orleans tradition called “second lining”. I’m sorry I didn’t get a picture but I was too busy twirling my umbrella. Even the crowd on Bourbon Street stopped to watch when we boogied by.

Walking down Bourbon Street one morning to check out the cheap souvenir shops, I saw a dog asleep on the sidewalk while his owner apparently visited a local watering hole. I took his picture and he didn’t even open an eye. I’m surprised he didn’t have a tip jar.

In the shops, the price is never the price. If you hesitate, the price begins to go down. I went to the French market one afternoon where I found a cool copper bracelet, which is supposed to help arthritis, at least according to the guy who sold it to me. Maybe I should have bought a voodoo doll. They were cheaper and no telling what I could have cured with one of those.

They have wonderful food and restaurants and a soup called gumbo that is full of shrimp, seafood and rice. They say you just have to eat it and not worry about what’s in it. They eat crawdads there, although they have changed the name to crawfish to make them more appealing.

Our hotel was believed to have ghosts and I intended to check it out at about midnight. Unfortunately, I was so tired by nighttime that I couldn’t stay awake late enough. I did notice, however, that the elevator had no thirteenth floor.

I’m still trying to recover from the trip. All the tourist areas are back up and running like normal since Katrina and I definitely recommend it as a great place to visit.

And, if you enjoyed my column, just put a dollar in my tip jar.

Copyright 2008 Sheila Moss
http://www.humorcolumnist.com

What do you say to New Orleans?

I have just returned from New Orleans and it was an experience that has changed my life forever. I have meet people that are not victims, but heroes – heroes greater than any I ever anticipated meeting in a lifetime.

The people there have suffered beyond endurance, yet they somehow manage to have the courage to go on.

Everyone you meet in New Orleans has a story. Ask and they will tell you.

I found myself overwhelmed.

What do you say to the housekeeper making your bed when she tells you about being trapped in the Superdome, witnessing rapes and murder, too afraid to sleep or eat for five days because she was worried about her 14 grandchildren?

What do you say to the valet who parks your car who lost his wife and three children to the flood and found their lifeless bodies?

What do you say to a high school principal who brought people through a second story window into the school where seventeen hundred people lived for nearly a week on breakfast cereal and water?

What do you say when you meet a man while walking your dog that lost his children, a son and a six month old baby daughter, because he couldn’t keep their heads above the water?

What do you say to a city that drowned because it couldn’t keep its head above the water?

“The water came so fast,” they said, in matter of 20 minutes the water rushed in and the city filled up like a bathtub.

When rescue finally came they were scattered to cities all over the U.S. After three years, some have managed to return. They love New Orleans. There is a great spirit of community and most people have generations of extended family.

It is a city that deserves to be saved.

They go on with the help of volunteer organizations, people that have come to help them rebuild, heroes like a minister whose congregation has left the pews and gone to the streets to work. Heroes like a young couple who left good jobs to come to St. Bernard parish and begin a rebuilding project.

What’s left?

Before I went, more than one person asked me why I was even going there since there was nothing left. But, the people are friendly, welcoming, and grateful when someone cares.

There is devastation beyond belief. Even after three years, ghost houses stand empty in the areas that were flooded worst. Some have been torn down and only concrete pads remain as silent testament that a family once lived there. Some houses wear red crosses showing that they too are marked for destruction and cannot be saved.

No one seems sure of the statistics, but most believe half the population is gone.

Yet, the French Quarter is as rowdy and beautiful as it ever was. The founders of the city knew to build on the high ground, and so the oldest areas received the least water.

Life goes on.

There is music literally on every corner. There are flowers. The famous restaurants are open and serving up Creole food. The hotels are open with business as usual.

The most critical need is for affordable housing. A waiter in the French Quarter who swam out of the flood, said he now pays twice as much rent and is lucky to have a place.

The heroes just keep turning up.

A shopkeeper in the Quarter told me she was worried about the people in Iowa. “We know what it's like,” she said.

There are other tragedies, other stories, and even other heroes.

But the story of New Orleans is an American tragedy -- a story that isn’t over. After nearly three years, people are still dying there, from stress, from grief, from being forgotten.

What do you say to people who are still suffering?

You say "I care."

The most hopeful place in the city

Baptist Crossroads

The people of Baptist Crossroads project led by Rev. David Crosby worked on what has been called the most hopeful place in the city of New Orleans – the Musician Village project.

Home ownership is a way to lift people out of poverty and change their financial future forever, according to studies. The faith community of New Orleans has coordinated efforts and worked together to rebuild.

The people of the church left the pews and became engaged in the community. The new normal since Katrina is to go forward, not backward. In order to get over the hurricane, the experience must be integrated into life.

The city is still in recovery.

During the flood the church was an island in the sea, a refuge on higher ground for animals and people. Since the flood, half the congregation has left, moved away.

The greatest need is for volunteers to work. Any donations go for supplies. There is no requirement that a person be a musician to live in Musician Village, but there is a concentration of displaced musicians there in an attempt to preserve New Orleans’ unique musical heritage.

Habitat for Humanity

Habitat has been in New Orleans for 25 years helping to fill the need for low income housing. It is one of the oldest and best know building projects that uses volunteers. They build only new homes, which are paid for by the home owner with a 30 day, no interest loan.

A sponsor provides $75,000 toward a home and the rest is done by volunteers. To qualify, the home-owner must have at least a $19,200 income. They also must work 350 hours (sweat equity) on their home and attend meetings on how to budget and manage finances. Homes are 1100 square feet and built 5”7” off the ground (flood level).

Since Hurricane Katrina struck the Gulf Coast, Habitat has build 115 homes with 125 under construction in the New Orleans area. (1/8/08) For more information or to volunteer: http://www.habitat-nola.org

They just don't know how bad it still is...

This is after the fact, but I want to tell about some of the projects we visited that are working to help.

The St. Bernard Project

While in New Orleans, we were able to talk to some of the people that are bringing back hope to the people.

The St. Bernard Project is a rebuilding project started by two people, a young lawyer and his wife, who left their homes and jobs and moved to New Orleans after they came to visit and saw what happened there. They call themselves people who care. I call them heroes.

The people of St. Bernard have only two messages that they want people to hear:

1. DON’T FORGET US.
2. WE’RE NOT LAZY.

St. Bernard Parish is a mostly white community of hardworking people. Many work as fishermen. People laid down their life in military service for their country, many worked in government. But when they needed their government, it failed to respond to the physical need for help.

People are tied to the land and have family values. There is a perception that the flooding is a “black problem,” that they are “better off” not to return. There are people of all faith and ages. If they can solve a problem, they will. Would you tell people not to come back here?

The problems of St. Bernard Parish are solvable problems. All that is needed is people, funds, and supervision. Anyone can re-build a home with training. Only the electrical, plumbing, and cabinets require skilled workers.

The project is funded by United Way and with donations from GE, Proctor & Gamble, and Shell.

They need volunteers. To volunteer contact them at http://www.stbernardproject.com

There are great mental health problems due to loss of family and relationships. Mental health problems are increasing, not dropping. There is a need for a mental health clinic and more professionals there for a long term. The closest hospital is a 30 minute drive away.

People have not forgotten – they just don’t know how bad it still is.

Devastation of St. Bernard Parish was total. “Tell people the truth,” they pleaded. We need them for whatever they can do.

Message to New Orleans - We Care

The 32nd annual conference is over. NSNC columnists have left to back to their homes, back to jobs and newspapers all over the U.S. The theme of the conference was "We have not forgotten." We were so welcomed by the city and people were both surprised and grateful that we wanted to come back there.

It has been traumatic and emotional, in spite of taking time for fun. So many in this city have suffered and are still suffering from post-traumatic stress. They are working hard to recover, but feel forgotten while the media goes chasing after new stories to report.

There are organizations that are working to help New Orleans help itself. If you can volunteer, please go there and do so. No expertise is nececessary, just a willing spirit and desire to help. If you can't work at rebuilding -- go anyhow. The tourist industry is up and running. The people are friendly. The food is wonderful.

New Orleans needs us to go there, to visit them, show support and to let them know that we do understand, have not forgotten, and most of all that we care.

The city is not under water. But we have seen devastation beyond what we imagined could possibly still exist. The magnitude of what happened here is truly overwhelming. Numerous columns will be written all over the country by our members. A book is in the making.

New Orleans - thank you for making us so welcome. Now, more than ever, we can say "We have not forgotten." It has been a life changing experience to come here. And we intend to do all we can to see than others do not forget you either.

Pictures of devastated homes

These are pictures from our bus tour of the damaged area of the city. These are only representative pictures as the damage was so widespread it would be impossible to photograph it all. Some areas are heavily damaged, some damaged less, some damaged but repaired. Note the homes marked for demolotion, the FEMA trailers, the abandoned homes, and the empty pads where homes no longer exist.

Katrina tour of New Orleans

The French Quarter covers about 13 blocks and was on some of the higher ground, therefore, it was not flooded like the lower areas of the city. Canal Street divides the city into two sections, the American side, or uptown, and the Creole side, downtown. The streets of the French Quarter are from 1719 and very narrow.

During Katrina, the police took over Harrah’s Casino as an emergency headquarters as it was well-built. Nearly every building in New Orleans sustained damage from the storm. At Jackson Square, Bush promised that New Orleans will never be forgotten. The people of the city say he must have a short memory.

The French Market is the oldest open air market in America. Restaurants in the Quarter serve jazz and traditional foods of New Orleans, such as, Po’ Boy sandwiches, muffelettas (round sandwich), beignets (donuts) and Café Latté.

The architecture is French and Spanish; window shutters are French and wrought iron balconies are Spanish influence. The area was occupied by the Creoles, which are a blended people of many nationalities.

Flood walls protect the city, which is actually below sea level, but during Katrina there was a catastrophic failure of the flood protection system.

The Ninth Ward was one of the most devastated areas of the city and still remains mostly unrepaired and unoccupied. It is a working class community on the other side of the canal. The water came in from the lake, not from the river. Many houses stand empty, still bearing the marks of searches by the National Guard units. Some are marked for demolition by red X’s, others have been demolished and only a concrete pad remains to show that a house was there.

St. Bernard parish is a middle-class community of fishermen where many work in the fishing industry. The water filled up the area in a matter of 20 minutes, leaving people trapped and unable to escape. One high school served as a shelter to the sick and those who could not leave the city. The water flooded the first story and 1700 people survived in 8 feet of water for almost a week with little food and water.

The hurricane happened on August 29th and it was September 11th before help arrived. Over 2000 lives were lost in the New Orleans area.

More Katrina Survivors

Everyone has a story. The housekeeper who did our room told a story of horror while she made beds. She was in the Superdome during Katrina. The roof blew away and the water came in on them. There were rapes and murders. She saw a gang beat a man to death who raped a child. Old people who couldn't take the heat and stress died, and bodies lay in the sun to rot. She said she has never seen it as hot as it was those days after the storm.

She didn't eat or sleep the entire time she was there. She had 4 children and 18 grandchildren with her, and thought they were all going to die. Bodies were in the water; dead animals, and empty vehicles floated in the toxic brew. They were finally rescued by the military while looters who had stolen guns from WalMart shot at rescue helicopters. She saw dead bodies everywhere.

Her family was relocated to Dallas. She cried and couldn't sleep for months afterwards because of all she had been through. An aunt of hers died from the stress of the experience. She wanted to come home, but there was no home to come to. Many people grieved themselves to death, she said, and many are still are grieving. They have no homes and everything they worked a lifetime for is gone.

She came back to New Orleans because the hotel sent for her to come back to work. Her house is gone. There is nothing left but a foundation. She had to start over again from the bottom of her shoes. Still, she is thankful to be alive. A barge washed over the levee and crushed many houses, she said. When they finally cut it up and removed it, the houses were flat and human bones were found.

She lives in fear of another hurricane. She is tired of running, but afraid of staying. She said if she ever leaves again, it will be for the last time. Her entire family is from New Orleans and she has always lived here. Her sister died before Katrina and she is thankful that she was at least spared having to experience it.

She used to be afraid of ghosts in the hotel, but now she is not afraid. She has seen worse. She went to check the grave of her sister, and it was okay. Later, however, looters stole all the brass urns from graves in the cemetary. Every store in the city was broken into and looted. She said not a single store was spared.

There was furniture, mattresses, and trash everywhere afterwards. All the vegetation died and everything was gray. She is thankful to be alive and believes God spared her family because of prayer, but she has seen more than any person should ever have to see. She believes the city will never be the same.

"It was like the end of the world," she said.

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My daughter talked to one of the parking valets here at the hotel about Katrina. He was out of town and couldn't get back. His entire family drowned in the flood - a wife and three children. He blames himself for not getting them out of the city, but never imagined it would be like it was. He found their bodies after the flood - all dead.

* * * * *

Another man stopped to pet the dog, then began to tell about how he lost his dog along with 7 members of his family. "People no longer care," he said. "It's been three years and they don't want to hear about it any more." He told about how the water became higher and higher. He tried to rescuse his children, but his son was swept away by water. His daughter was 6 months old and the water rose and rose until he could no longer keep her head above the water.

What can you say to people who have suffered so much? Lives have been horribly changed and will never be the same. "We thought it was the end of the world," he said. And for some of Katrina's victims, it was.

* * * * *

The stories are difficult emotionally to write about. I'm trying to write down the details just as they were told to me before I forget. These first hand accounts from eye witness are stories I know I can never forget and probably never have another opportunity to hear. They are life-changing stories. The most surprising thing is that there are still so many still suffering even after this long. We must let New Orleans know that just like them, we will never forget.

Katrina on Burbon Street

People seem anxious to tell you their story. Almost everyone here seems to have suffered. We went to Pat O'Brien's on Burbon Street where the waiter told us about his experience, spending a considerable amount of time talking. I think they want you to know, understand, what the city has suffered.

He escaped the flood by walking and swimming out, and has been displaced in Austin. He finally came back about 6 months ago. The house where he lived is gone, not worth fixing. The water was to the second story when he escaped and was 8 feet higher later on.

He was unable to find work as a waiter in Austin and had to do other work that he didn't like as well. He said there is a great shortage of housing and a place similar to what he had before now costs twice as much. It is hard for businesses to find service people due to the housing situation.

He is from New York originally but loves New Orleans, so he came back. But he said the city has changed. The tourists are not coming like they used to. The French Quarter was not flooded like the rest of the city, but it is not the same. Burbon Street is up and running, but it's heart is wounded. It believes it will recover sometime, but it will be a long, long time.

Party on...

However bad the rest of the city may be, the French Quarter parties on. The French Quarter was not under water during Katrina and recovered more quickly. It is up and running with business as usual.

We checked into the hotel and then went for a walk to Jackson Square. I took some wonderful photos, which I hope I can download and post. The weather is hot and sticky. By the time we got back to the hotel, I was having a hot flash that not even a visit to the Carousel Bar could cool.

Ran into some of our other NSNC member in the lobby of the hotel. They had been to dinner already. Wish I had. We ended up on Burbon Street looking for food. Not my kind of place, I'm afraid, too wild and too much drinking.

A taste of post Katrina

Even before we arrived, we had a taste of post Katrina New Orleans. One hundred miles before the city, we saw a storage area for FEMA trailers, what appeared to be acres. I don't know if they are coming, going, or surplus. It was a sobering reminder of what happened here.

Then crossing the causeway, we were impressed with just how surrounded by water New Orleans is. All that water, and it's below sea level. Scary... There was a new span of bridge in the process of being built.

Approaching the city via Interstate, we could see numerous building that were boarded up or just empty and abandoned. Tattered blue tarps still covered some of the roofs even after three years. Windows with missing glass stared at us with empty eyes.

No doubt about it, this grand lady called New Orleans has taken a hit. Even after three years, her bruises are still apparent.